Alcoholic Beverages in the Dreamlands

Copyright (C) 2012 by Kevin L. O'Brien

The Dreamlands is awash in alcohol. That perhaps isn't surprising, considering that the Waking World is also, but the Lands have one feature the Waking realm doesn't have: as a quasi-Medieval world, alcohol is often safer to drink than the water. While the essays on water sources and sanitation show that natural water is often safer to drink than in the Waking World, beverages that involve some form of water treatment, such as alcohol, coffee, and tea, are very prevalent as a safety precaution.

There are four kinds of alcoholic beverages. Beer is any beverage that is brewed. Wine is any beverage that is fermented. Spirit, also known as liquor (pronounced licker), is any beverage that is distilled. Liqueur (pronounced li-coor), also known as cordial, is any spirit that has been flavoured and has added sugar. All alcoholic beverages are made in the same basic way: using yeast to convert sugars into alcohol. Though this process is technically known as fermentation, that term is restricted to winemaking out of long tradition. Some beverages require a preliminary step, wherein the vegetable starches are converted to sugar, while others require the additional step of distilling the alcohol to concentrate it. Almost any substance containing sugar can be converted into alcohol, but some are easier to work with than others. Beer is generally associated with peasants and the working class, wine with the middle class and the bourgeoisie, and liqueurs with the upper class and the aristocracy, but these associations are not strong and considerable crossover occurs. However, different spirits have such strong cultural associations that it is generally considered rude and bad taste for anyone outside of these specific cultures to indulge in a "foreign" spirit.

Brewing can use almost any source of starch, but usually some form of grain is used. The process begins with malting. Grain is steeped in a vat of water for about 40 hours to begin germination. It is then spread on the floor of a germination room for around 5 days. Afterwards it is dried in a heated kiln to stop germination. The purpose of malting is to release grain starches for conversion into sugars. Next the malted grain, or alternatively an unmalted grain or another source of starch, is milled and mixed with hot water in a large vessel known a mash tun. This mixture is called the "mash". During this stage the enzymes in the source convert the starches into sugars. The mixture is heated to three different temperature levels to promote the activity of different types of enzymes, to produce as much sugar as possible. Mashing generally lasts for 1 to 2 hours. The result is a sugar-rich liquid called "wort".

Next the wort is removed in a process known as lautering. It is either drained out the bottom of the tun or poured over a filter, and the mash is rinsed with hot water to extract what remains. Next the wort is boiled in copper kettles from 15 to 120 minutes to sterilize it and drive off unpalatable flavours. At this stage extra ingredients can be added to impart desired flavours and aromas to the beer, such as hops. Afterwards any solid material is removed and the wort cooled. Next it is placed in a fermentation tank and yeast is added. This converts the sugars to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The temperature and timing of fermentation depends upon the type of yeast being used and the beer being created. Ales, stouts, and wheat beers use top-fermenting yeasts that float at the top of the wort, require warmer temperatures and less overall fermentation time, and produce more alcohol. Lagers use bottom-fermenting yeasts that sink to the bottom, require cooler temperatures and more overall fermentation time, and produce less alcohol. Lambics use whatever wild yeasts and bacteria are available locally. They are generally fermented in oak casks and tend to be sour.

Once the yeast begins to die, the wort and remaining yeast can be transferred to a second tank to further fermentation. Next the beer is transferred to another tank where it is cooled as low as possible without freezing. This is known as conditioning and it causes the yeast to settle out. This can take as little as 2 weeks to as long as 6 months, depending upon the type of beer being made. Next it is filtered, usually with cellulose or diatomaceous earth, then placed in bottles or casks. Yeast and extra sugar can be added to bottles to further fermentation to create carbonation, while some beers are conditioned directly inside casks.

Other beverages that are brewed, but not called beer, include barley wine (with an alcohol content as high as wine), kvass (made from rye bread), chichi and tesguino (made from corn), pito (made from sorghum), sake (made from rice), and boza (made from millet). Potatoes can be used as a starch source, but the beverages commonly referred to as potato beer and ginger beer are not brewed but fermented.

Fermentation, as a method of producing beverages, is based mostly on fruits and vegetables, with grapes being the primary source. Though the exact method of fermentation varies depending on which wine is being made, there are basic steps common to all. The first step involves processing the source, which for fruits and vegetables usually means pulping and/or crushing. Larger sources may have to be cut up first. No attempt at this point is made to separate the juice from pulp, skin, stems, or seeds; it is just all mixed together to form what is called the "must". The next two steps, pressing and fermentation, are interchangeable. Their order depends upon the nature of the wine to be made. If it is to be light and clear, the must is generally pressed to separate the juice from the rest of the source. It is then fermented. If, however, the wine is to be dark, translucent or opaque, and tannic in flavor, the must is generally fermented first, then pressed. The last step is cellaring. This involves storing the fermented wine in bottles or casks and can include aging.

Aging is the process in which a beverage is stored for a length of time to improve its quality and make it more palatable. This occurs because many of the chemicals present in these beverages react with each other and with alcohol to form new compounds that reduce certain aromas while enhancing others or creating new ones, as well as changing the colour. Though many alcoholic beverages are aged, certain types are famous for being aged. Wine is one such beverage, but others include whiskey, brandy, and rum. There are generally two types of aging. One is known as reductive. It occurs when the beverage is isolated from the air. This is generally done in glass bottles, but can be performed in stainless metallic casks. During this process, tannic acids break down, making the beverage smoother, but the colour, if any, is largely preserved. "Bottle aging" is generally reserved for beverages that are to be drunk while young. The other process is known as oxidative. It occurs when the beverage is exposed to the air, and is generally performed in wood casks or barrels, which are permeable to oxygen. The oxygen speeds up the aging process, while the beverage absorbs other compounds from the wood, adding new aromas and changing its colour. Water and alcohol can also evaporate through the wood; this often called "the angel's share". Under dry conditions, more water than alcohol will evaporate, so the alcohol has a chance to concentrate, but under humid conditions more alcohol evaporates than water, reducing the strength of the beverage. "Barrel aging" is generally reserved for beverages that will not be drunk for some time after being made, such as years. Heat also affects the aging process, and beverages can be prematurely or artificially aged using higher temperatures.

Some beverages are fined and filtered before being bottled; usually, these are beverages that should not undergo further aging to preserve the desired quality. Fining is the process of adding a substance to the wine to absorb or bond with soluble materials, to create larger particulates that will then settle out. Typical substances include blood powder, egg whites, casein from milk, gelatin, bentonite clay, activated charcoal, silica, and kaolin. Filtration is then usually performed with cheesecloth, cellulose fibers, diatomaceous earth, perlite, or a thin ceramic membrane, often in combinations. The beverage can then be cooled almost to freezing to crystallize acids such as tartaric acid, and sulfur dioxide in the form of potassium metabisulphite or sorbic acid in the form of potassium sorbate can be added as antibiotics and antioxidants. Furthermore, some wines, such as kosher wines, can be pasteurized by heating them to 185 ºF for a minute, then cooling them to around 122 ºF and holding them there for up to three days. The advantage of this method is that these wines can be handled by Gentiles without breaker kosher. All this helps to clarify and stabilize alcoholic beverages, especially wine.

Being as grapes are the most common source for wine, they produce the widest variety of beverages. Though the characteristics of the various wines are most strongly influenced by the grape varieties used and their environment, their appearance and use is determined by how they are made. Red wine is made from red and black varietal grapes. After crushing, their must is fermented, and during this process the skins, stems, and seeds release colour and tannins, which give red wines their astringent taste. Some vintages are pressed after a short fermentation time before too much tannic acid is released, then fermented longer without the must. They are then bottled and can be drunk almost immediately. Vintages that are pressed after only one to three days of contact with the must form the basis for pinks wines, also known as rosé wines. Another method is to drain off, or bleed, some of the fermenting liquid to concentrate that left in the vat. This is known as saignée. This bleed liquid can then be fermented separately to make rosé. (Pink wines can also be made by mixing red and white wines together, though these are not considered to be true rosé, and in some places the process is illegal.) Vintages meant to be fine wines, however, are not pressed after fermentation, but are filtered off and aged in wood casks before bottling to make them more mellow and drinkable after a number of years. Many are also racked, which means they are transferred to new casks, leaving sediment behind. This helps to clarify the wine as well as encourage aging. Most vintages continue to age in the bottle itself.

White wine can be made from white or red/black varietal grapes. The reason is because after crushing the grapes are immediately pressed to separate the juice from the rest of the must. It is then fermented, after which it is filtered, bottled to protect it from the air, and kept cool. Many white wines are best drunk within a few months of being bottled, but a few are aged for more than a couple of years in the bottle. Similar to rosé wines are orange wines, in which the must is fermented for a few days before pressing to impart some colour to the wine.

The must left over after pressing is known as pomace. Red grape pomace can be steeped in water, then pressed again to obtain the remaining fermented liquid, which can be fermented again to create a low-quality wine known as piquette. White grape pomace can be treated the same way to create press wine, but it is usually distilled to create a form of brandy called "marc". After this, the pomace can be dried and used as fertilizer, a fuel source, a preservative in food, or a source for dyes, food colouring, or tartrates.

Red, pink, and white wines in turn form the basis for other types of wine. Sparkling wines have yeast and sugar added after bottling. This causes a second fermentation cycle that creates carbonation. Generally more sugar is added than can be fermented, but the amount can be carefully controlled to establish the final sweetness of the aged wine. As in the Waking World, the only sparkling wines that can legally call themselves Champagne are those produced by the méthode champenoise, and at present there are only three wineries in the Dreamlands that are licensed to use this method. Similarly, the only wines that can legally call themselves Prosecco are those produced by the Metodo Charmat-Martinotti, though there are a dozen wineries licensed to use this method. Table wines, which include jug wines and plonk, are typically of lower quality than fine wines, and generally consist of inferior vintages, pressed red wine, and even piquette or white pressed wine. These tend to be made in bulk and are inexpensive, even cheap, compared to other wines.

Dessert wines contain higher amounts of sugar and alcohol than regular wines. However, this is somewhat contradictory in that alcohol is made from sugar. To accomplish this, vintners can use grapes that naturally contain high amounts of sugar, add sugar or honey to the must before fermentation, add unfermented must to the casks or bottles after fermentation, or remove water to concentrate the sugars. In warm climates this can be done by drying the grapes; this is known as straw or raisin wine. In cooler climates this can be done by freezing the grapes; this is known as ice wine. In moist temperate climates this can be done by infecting the grapes with noble rot, which desiccates them.

Fortified wines are similar to dessert wines in that they have a high alcohol content and most have a high sugar content as well. Brandy or a neutral spirit is then added to raise the alcohol content to at least 16%. However, whereas dessert wines are generally drunk with a meal, usually during the dessert course, fortified wines are generally drunk beforehand as an apéritif or afterwards as a digestif, depending upon the variety produced. Yeast is killed off when the alcohol content exceeds 15%, so if the wine is fortified before fermentation is completed, it will have a sweet flavor, whereas if it is fortified after fermentation has run its course, it will by dryer. The sooner fermentation is stopped, the sweeter the resulting wine will be. In fact, some wines are fortified before fermentation even begins. Fortified wines are usually aged using the solera process. Each vintage is stored in one or more casks. After an appropriate aging period specific for each type of wine, half of each of the oldest casks is bottled. The casks are then refilled with wine from the second-oldest casts, which are refilled with wine from the third-oldest casks, and so on down to the youngest casks. These are then filled with some of the newest vintage, with the rest placed in their own casks. In this way, after the first bottling, the contents of casks of different vintages and ages become blended, forming a consistent product that varies little from year to year, though its characteristics may change slowly over many years. Because only a small fraction of the solera-aged wine is released each year, this maintains a large reserve while keeping the product rare and expensive. It also represents a very large capital investment and a valuable inheritable asset.

Though any wine can be fortified, there are six varieties that are well known:

Madeira is fermented from the must of white grapes, fortified with neutral spirits, and aged by heating in a process known as estufagem. One method is to pour the fortified wine into concrete tanks surrounded by pipes that circulate hot water around the containers. It is exposed to temperatures as high as 130 ºF for at least 90 days. Another is to store the wine in wooden casks and place them in a steam-filled room similar to a sauna. It is more gently heated for six months to over a year. A third is to store the casks in rooms or buildings heated by the sun. The wine is aged for up to 20 years or more under such conditions.

Marsala is also fermented from the must of white grapes, fortified with brandy, and aged in bottles. One variety is aged for at least four months while another is aged for at least two years. However, the unfortified wine can be stored in wood casks and aged for at least five years. During that time evaporation will concentrate the remaining alcohol. It is often flavoured with eggs, almonds, or strawberries. It is a popular wine for cooking as well.

The Muscat grape produces a high sugar content when ripe. While not all Muscat wines are fortified, most are either sweet or have a higher alcohol content than normal. The most common fortified wine made from this grape is named Muscatel. The fermentation is stopped before completion by the addition of a neutral spirit to leave a fair amount sugar in the wine. It comes in red, rosé, and white varieties, and may either be bottled right after fortification or undergo some aging first.

Port is perhaps the quintessential fortified wine. It is fermented from the must of red/black or white grapes, and fortified with a neutral spirit derived from grapes named aguardente vínica. While it can be aged to make a type of brandy named aguardente velha, the fortification version is not itself a brandy but a raw spirit. It is added before full fermentation to retain some sugar for sweetness. There are two general types of port. Ruby port is aged in stainless metallic or concrete tanks to protect it from oxygen, while tawny port is aged in wooden casks. Most ports are fined and filtered before bottling to prevent further aging, but some are not. These are known as crusted ports and they will continue to age in the bottle.

Beyond that, there are a number of specialty varieties. Reserve port is a premium quality ruby port, but the term has been misused. White and rosé port are made from white and rosé or orange wines, respectively. Vintage port is any port made entirely from a single year's crop of grapes instead of blended with other vintages. This is usually done only during the best years, and the winery must declare the vintage. A single estate vintage port originates from the grapes harvested by a single estate rather than a mix of grapes from multiple estates. A winery will declare this if an individual estate has a good year even if the rest of the crop is not as good. Both are bottled about 18 months after harvesting and finish aging in the bottle for a number of years before being opened and served, but late bottled vintage ports generally barrel age for up to 6 years. One variety is not fined and filtered and will continue to age in the bottle, but all late bottled vintage ports may be consumed more or less immediately. Colheita port is a vintage port that has been aged for 20 years or more before bottling. Garrafeira port combines barrel and bottle aging to take advantage of both methods. The wine is aged in wood casks for 3 to 6 years, then transferred to glass demijohns to age for at least 8 years, though the second step usually lasts much longer.

Sherry is second only to port as the most well known fortified wine. It is fermented from the must of white grapes, but initially the grapes are only lightly pressed, often relying solely on their own weight. The must from this first pressing, mostly juice, is named primera yema, and the wine fermented from this is used to make a fine, light, pale sherry. The grapes are pressed more heavily a second time; the must derived from this is named segunda yema, and its wine is used to make a coarser, heavier, darker sherry. Finally the grapes are pressed a third time, and this wine is used to make the fortification spirit, named destilado. Once fermentation is completed, the wine is evaluated to determine whether the sherry will be high or regular quality. It is then fortified; destilado is first mixed with aged sherry in a 50-50 blend named mitad y mitad. This is then added to the young sherry to raise the alcohol content to the proper level.

Sherry is aged in wooden barrels that are only five-sixths filled. This air space, which allows oxygen exchange through the porous wood, encourages the proliferation of the remaining yeast in the wine. During fermentation, the lack of oxygen causes the yeast to convert sugars into alcohol, but the reintroduction of oxygen causes the yeast to convert acids into other organic compounds. This not only mellows the sherry, it also creates its distinctive flavour. Meanwhile, the yeast floats to the surface and forms a film that protects the sherry from oxygen. This film is known as flor or voile. The aging sherry is blended using the solera method, so there can be no vintage sherry, unlike port. When the sherry is finally bottled, it can be sweetened to the desired amount using sugar, honey, grape must, or juice made from dried grapes.

There are a number of varieties of sherry made, but mostly they differ only by alcohol and sugar content. However, there are two broad types. One is aged under the yeast film until bottled. This type is named Fino or Manzanilla. It tends to be delicate; it should be drunk soon after bottling and needs to be consumed within hours of being opened. The other is aged under the yeast film to start with, but then is allowed full contact with the air to age oxidatively. This type is named Amontillado or Oloroso, with the latter aged much longer than the former. It has a higher alcohol content than the first type so that it does not oxidize too quickly. It tends to be more robust, can be stored for years, and can last for a few days or even a few weeks after being opened. It also serves as the base for cream or sweet sherry.

Vermouth is fermented like any other white wine, and some wineries age it for a short time. It is fortified with a neutral spirit distilled from grapes; if it is to be a sweet vermouth, sugar syrup is added before the spirit. It is then poured into barrels or tanks that contain ingredients such as cloves, cinnamon, quinine, citrus peel, cardamom, marjoram, chamomile, coriander, juniper, hyssop, and ginger. Sometimes dried fruits such as strawberries are used. Some wineries use wormwood, but many scrupulously avoid it because it is poisonous. The wine is occasionally stirred until the ingredients have been absorbed, and then it is bottled. Vermouth is naturally pale like its white wine base, but caramel colour can be added to make golden, rosé, or red varieties. Each winery uses its own secret recipe of ingredients, creating distinct beverages with unique tastes. Three popular ones are Francisca, Bianco and Rosso. The first is a pale, dry vermouth that is made more bitter by the use of nutmeg or bitter orange. The second is a pale, delicate, lightly sweet vermouth, while the third is a red, robust, medium-sweet vermouth.

Other beverages similar to vermouth include Lillet and Dubonnet. Lillet is a blend of a robust white wine and a citrus liqueur. It is known as a tonic wine because it contains quinine. It is matured in oak casts and comes in white and red versions. Dubonnet is a fortified wine blended with herbs, spices, and citrus peels, including quinine. The fermentation of the base wine is stopped before completed to preserve some sweetness. It is available in red, white, and golden versions.

In addition to fermented beverages, there are a number of fortified wines created from blending. One popular beverage is Tokay. Not to be confused with Tokaji, a sweet wine obtained from grapes affected by the noble rot fungus, Tokay is a blend of port, sherry, and Angelica wine, itself a fortified white wine created by adding neutral spirit or brandy to unfermented juice or part-way through fermentation. It generally is not aged.

Many fermented beverages created from other fruits and some vegetables are named after their source, such as plume wine, ginger wine, and pomace wine. Others that are not called wines include cider (made from apples), perry (made from pears); tepache (made from pineapples), mead (made from honey), and kumis (made from milk). Others that include the word wine, such as brandy wine, are not true wines but distilled spirits.

Distillation is the process by which alcohol is purified and concentrated by evaporating it and then condensing it back into liquid. It takes advantage of the fact that alcohol evaporates at a lower temperature than water, so with carefully controlled heating a mixture of water and alcohol can be separated into pure water and pure alcohol. Technically, however, alcohol can never be distilled to more than 95% pure, so "pure" alcohol still contains some amount of water. Alcohol purified to 95% is known as neutral spirit, because it has no aromas or colours carried over from the source of the alcohol. However, more informally any liquid of higher than 40 proof that contains no added sugar or flavours is generally called a "spirit".

A quick word about "proof". The term derives from the time in the Waking World when military personnel were paid, at least in part, in rations of an alcoholic beverage, such as rum. To make sure the rum wasn't watered down, it was mixed with gunpowder. Gunpowder will not burn if the alcohol/water ratio was less than 57/100, so if it did burn, the beverage was said to be "proofed". Though this method is still used in the Dreamlands, proof now indicates the amount of alcohol in a beverage and is defined as twice the percentage. So 57% alcohol would be 114 proof. This in turn helps to distinguish spirits from beer and wine. Brewing and fermentation can never produce an alcohol content above 40 proof (20%), because alcohol is toxic to yeast and that level kills it off. Instead, contents greater than 40 proof can only be made by distillation, so any beverage above 40 proof is referred to as a spirit. With the exception of certain whiskeys and brandies, absinthe, and moonshine, the vast majority of spirits are limited to 80 proof.

Any source of alcohol can be distilled, though the amount of alcohol obtained will differ. Like wine the exact procedure differs with the type of spirit being produced, but distillation tends to follow three basic steps. First, the alcohol source is prepared. This source can either be a pre-made liquid, such as wine or beer, or a mash or must similar to that used in brewing beer or fermenting wine which is fermented on site and then filtered to recover the fermented liquid. This source is called the "wash". This is where some of the differences between procedures occurs. Next, the wash is placed in a still and the alcohol is distilled and collected. Finally, the alcohol is processed using aging and/or colouring and flavouring methods before being bottled. This is where most of the differences between procedures occurs.

Two types of stills are in common use. Pot stills, also known as batch stills, are invariably made of copper. Batch distillation is a two-step process. The wash is placed in one still and heated until the alcohol vapourizes along with various aromatic components. At the same time, the heat and the copper metal stimulate chemical reactions that produce numerous new volatile aroma components, change the relative amounts of existing aroma components, and hydrolyze other compounds such as esters. Since some water will vapourize at lower temperatures, the vapour contains some water, but has a higher concentration of alcohol than the source liquid. The vapour is then condensed. At this point the distillate, called "low wine", is about 50 to 70 proof. The liquid is collected in another still, and vapourized and condensed again. The first 1% of this distillate is called the "head". It is about 166 proof and has an unpleasant odor, so it is removed and mixed with another batch of low wine to be recycled. As distillation continues, the resulting distillate, called the "heart", is about 140 proof and is saved for consumption. The portion of low wine left after distillation is called the "tail" and is also mixed with a new batch of low wine for recycling.

Column stills, also known as continuous stills or Coffey stills, consist of two columns filled with stacks of porous dividers known as bubble plates. One column is called the analyzer, and this is where the alcohol is vapourized. The other column is called the rectifier, and it is where the alcohol vapour is condensed. Continuous distillation is also a two-step process, but unlike pot stills which much be emptied and cleaned out before a new batch can be distilled, column stills recirculate the wash until nearly all the alcohol in the wash has been removed. Column stills are able to produce 190 proof neutral spirits, but the aromas from the alcohol source are lost along the way.

The process begins by preheating the wash. It is then added to the top of the analyzer column to flow down to the bottom. At the same time, steam is introduced into the bottom of the analyzer column to rise to the top. The steam heats the wash further and begins to vapourize the alcohol. The stack of bubble plates act like a series of pot stills operating at different temperatures, the warmest at the bottom and the coolest at the top. This creates a fractionation effect, with different chemicals vapourizing at different levels, along with different amounts of alcohol and water. The spent wash, now devoid of alcohol, collects at the bottom of the column where it flows out to be discarded. Meanwhile, the vapours flow up to and out of the top of the analyzer, and then down into the bottom of the rectifier column, from where they rise to fill it. At the very top is the "spirit chamber", where the alcohol condenses. At the bottom of the chamber is the "spirit plate", which collects the alcohol and directs it to an outflow for collection. At the very top of the column the highly volatile vapours escape, and are collected, condensed, and added back into the wash. Below the spirit plate are a series of bubble plates that encourage the condensation of other vapours. The resulting liquid flows to the bottom of the column, where it is drawn off and added back into the wash. In addition to the plates, the rectifier is also filled with a coil of tubing through which cold wash is run from the top of the column to the bottom. The wash pulls heat out of the vapours, causing them to condense while heating up the wash before it flows into the analyzer column. The wash is coldest at the top of the column, where it causes the most condensation, and becomes warmer as it descends to the bottom. In this way the vapours are gradually cooled as they rise to the top of the column. This not only makes it easier to condense the alcohol in the spirit chamber, it also prevents premature condensation of too much alcohol in the lower part of the column while encouraging the condensation of other chemicals, thereby purifying the alcohol.

Aside from the method of operation and the strength of the resulting alcohol, the primary difference between pot and column stills is that pot stills tend to preserve the aromas from the alcohol source, whereas column stills tend to eliminate them. As such, pot stills are used for spirits whose bouquet depends upon carrying over these source aromas, whereas continuous stills are used for spirits that are meant to have no bouquet, or which acquire their bouquet from the processing step.

Most noncommercial spirits are virtually indistinguishable from moonshine (herein defined as small-scale production of neutral spirit for personal or local consumption, being as alcohol production is not illegal in the Dreamlands), and it is reasonably safe to say that all commercial sprits began as forms of moonshine that were treated in special ways. In fact, many Dreamers are quite surprised when they discover that their favorite spirit starts out clear and colourless when it flows from the still. Most people make moonshine for one of three reasons, either as a way to produce cheap spirits, as a source of income, or to process their grain crop into form easier to handle. Moonshine is meant to be drunk immediately rather than aged, but because of its harshness, it is usually cut with water to a lower value of proof (usually 80 proof) and/or blended with juices to give it flavouring. Moonshine that isn't completely consumed right away but is stored for any length of time mellows with prolonged contact with oxygen, and that stored in wooden casks or barrels acquires colour and aromas from the wood. As such, it is not too great a stretch of the imagination to speculate that these observations led to experiments that ultimately produced the most well known spirits extant.

Vodka is the one commercial spirit that is the closest to pure moonshine. As such, it is somewhat eclectic in its social association, in that it can be enjoyed by all classes. Since it is based on pure neutral grain spirit, any source can be used, and a common belief is that vodka is made from potatoes. Though farmers who raise potatoes as a staple crop will use the excess for making "vodka" moonshine, in reality commercial vodka is made from grain, with vodkas derived from rye and wheat believed to be superior. What makes it different from all other spirits, however, is that care is taken to remove impurities to make it as pure as possible. This general means multiple distillations (though most large-scale producers use continuous stills to fractionate out undesired components), followed by filtration through activated charcoal and cellulose filters. However, most vodkas need to be diluted with water prior to bottling to reduce their alcohol content. Even so, many varieties of vodkas are infused with flavours to create distinctive beverages. Unlike liqueurs, however, they do not contain added sugar. The flavouring agents are added to the vodka after it has been filtered, and are left to steep for hours to months. After a second filtration the infused vodka is left to age for the flavour to mature. Virtually any flavour can be used as long as it can be accurately reproduced without adulterating the vodka.

Gin is the second commercial spirit that most closely resembles moonshine, except that from the start it was infused with flavours, predominantly from juniper berries, but it can utilize many other herbs and fruits, such as angelica root, orange, lime, lemon, and grapefruit peel, ground almonds, coriander, anise, orris root, cinnamon, cubeb, savory, dragon eye, saffron, baobob, nutmeg, and cassia bark, to name a few. In fact, in the Waking World, gin began as an herbal medicine. There are two types of gin. Both begin with a neutral spirit, usually derived from wheat, barley, or corn. Both are steeped in the herbs and fruits for twenty-four hours. However, one type is then redistilled while the other is not. The former is known as distilled gin whereas the latter is referred to as blended gin. Like vodka it is also socially eclectic, but it is strongly associated with Great Britain.

Absinthe, also called "the green fairy", is most strongly associated with the so-called "bohemian" class of artists and intellectuals. It is a distilled spirit of high strength, anywhere from 90 to 150 proof. Though sometimes mistaken for a liqueur, it is not bottled with extra sugar. Though bottled at high strength, most preparations dilute it with water. Unlike other well known spirits, there is no legal definition for what constitutes absinthe, so producers are at liberty to label their product as "absinthe" even if it does not conform to the traditional product. As such, it can be produced either through distillation or a cold mix process, though the latter product is generally considered inferior. Both methods begin with a neutral spirit; the traditional variety uses a grape-derived spirit, while lesser varieties use a neutral spirit from any source. The distillation method mixes this spirit with various herbs, including wormwood, green anise, and sweet fennel, along with other medicinal and culinary herbs, such as hyssop, melissa, angelica, sweet flag, dittany, coriander, veronica, juniper, and nutmeg. After a variable amount of time the mixture is redistilled, resulting in a colourless liquid around 144 proof. At this point it can be bottled as blanche absinthe, but it can also be steeped again with more herbs, such as petite wormwood and star anise among others. Chlorophyll is extracted, making verte absinthe with its characteristic green color, and adding to the herbal complexity. It is then filtered and diluted with water to the desired bottling strength. Cold mixing simply adds flavouring and colouring to a neutral spirit. An interesting variety is named rouge absinthe, which has been coloured red using hibiscus flowers. Blanche and artificially coloured absinthe can be stored indefinitely in clear bottles, but verte absinthe needs to be stored in dark bottles to prevent it from turning brown as the chlorophyll oxidizes. All varieties are best stored in a cool, dry place away from light.

Unlike other spirits, absinthe has a reputation for being dangerous. However, much of this is unfounded. It contains the chemical compound thujone, which some believe is an addictive psychoactive drug. Many drinkers complain of having hallucinations, but thujone has no psychotropic effects, and controlled experiments demonstrate that traditional absinthe does not cause hallucinations. The general consensus among scholars and physicians is that any hallucinations are caused by poisonous adulterants added to cold-mixed absinthes. Since there are no laws regulating what can be called absinthe, caution should be exercised at all times, since even a beverage labeled distilled natural or traditional absinthe may be cold mixed or adulterated. Meanwhile, a flaming neon-green drink heady with alcohol and infused with actual psychotropic, soporific, and toxic botanicals, which is frequently used to shanghai unsuspecting victims, is sometimes called "absinth" (note the missing "e"), but the difference in their appearance is too striking for anyone familiar with either to mistake them.

Brandy is strongly associated with the upper class and the aristocracy. It is any spirit derived from wine; it is usually distilled by a winery instead of a distillery. It can range from 70 to 120 proof and can have many different names depending upon who makes it. It can be made in either pot or continuous stills, and aged in single casks or using the solera method, giving it a characteristic golden or brown colour. Some brandies are not aged at all, and so appear clear and colourless. Some have caramel colouring added to appear as if they are aged, though this is generally frowned upon. Distillers use one of two rating systems, sometimes even both. Commercial producers use a star-based system, wherein the number of stars indicates how long the brandy is aged. For example, 3-Star brandy is aged for three years. Since commercial producers rarely age their brandy for longer than five years, 5-Star is as good as it gets. Traditional producers use a descriptive system with initials printed on the label. "V.S." means Very Special and indicates the brandy was aged for at least two years, "V.S.O.P." means Very Superior Old Pale and indicates the brandy was aged for at least four years, "XO" means Extra Old and indicates the brandy was aged for at least six years, and "Hors d'âge" means "beyond age" and indicates the brandy was aged for at least ten years, though in practice it usually indicates brandy so old that no minimum age can be assigned to it.

There are three types of brandy, based on their source. Grape wine brandy is the most common, being made from white wine. Two of the most famous varieties of grape brandy are Armagnac and Cognac, both named after the regions in the Waking World where they were first made. Armagnac is distilled in a column still, then aged in oak barrels for up to ten years, sometimes longer. Most are aged using the solera method and so are blended, but wines from superior years are aged individually for eventual sale as vintages. It is claimed to health benefits, such as reduction of heart disease. Cognac is based on white wine fermented with native wild yeasts, with no sugar or sulfur added. The wine (which is considered undrinkable) is then distilled twice in a traditional Charentais still. It consists of three vessels, a pot over a furnace, a wine heater, and a condenser. Preheated wine is placed in the pot, while the next batch is poured into the heater. The alcohol in the pot vapourizes and passes through the heater, heating up the next batch of wine. It then flows through the condenser and is collected. When time comes to distill the next batch, the pot is drained and the preheated wine transferred directly into the pot. The heater can then be filled with the next batch, and so on. The distillate is then aged in oak casks for at least two years. It begins at about 140 proof, but over a period of 40 to 50 years it gradually reduces to 80 proof. Since the wood can no longer affect the cognac after that point, it is poured off into glass carboys for storage. It can be bottled and sold, but it is generally used for blending. Young cognac must be cut with water to reduce its strength, but that also reduces its flavour, so it is usually blended with older vintages. Though some producers prefer to use single vintages for blending, others blend with multiple vintages and even cognacs from multiple estates.

Only a few producers are legally licensed to make Armagnac and cognac, but many others make and sell inferior fake versions. It is difficult to stem this problem because most exist outside the jurisdictions of local governments willing to enforce the licenses.

Fruit brandy, also known as eau de vie, is distilled from fruits other than grapes. Like grape brandy it begins with a wine. For example, applejack is distilled from cider, while poiré is distilled from perry. Other fruit wines include those made from peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, elderberries, raspberries, mulberries, and blackberries, as well as other exotic fruits. Fruit brandy can also be made from nuts like walnuts or sap like maple syrup. It is generally 80 to 90 proof and bottled very soon after distillation to preserve fruit aromas and freshness. A few, however, are aged, sometimes for just a couple of years, sometimes for decades. One famous variety of fruit brandy is Schnaps (not to be confused with schnapps, which is a liqueur). It can be made from a wide variety of fruits, and sometimes a pure neutral spirit is infused with a particular fruit, especially those low in sugar, and this mixture is distilled instead of a wine.

Rum, more than any other spirit, is strongly associated with maritime activity (especial naval and piratical), exotic island culture, and colonial societies. It is the simplest spirit to make: all you need is sugar. But generally it is made from sugarcane juice or more commonly molasses (which is also derived from sugarcane juice by boiling it, but can also be obtained from sugar beets). It normally has a strength of 80 proof, but it can be made as strong as 160 proof. It is often used as a form of money, to pay for goods and services. In the Waking World, the early American triangle trade shipped rum to Africa to purchase slaves, who were taken to the West Indies to make molasses, which was sent to New England to produce rum. Along with salt, lodging, and food, rum is often paid to military personnel, especially sailors, as part of their salary; it was safer to drink than the stored water, which turned stagnant on long voyages. Bodies have been known to be preserved in barrels of rum for long trips home.

Rum mixed with water to reduce its alcohol content is called "grog". The practice began in the Waking World as a way to make stagnant drinking water on ships more palatable. It was at first mixed with beer or wine, but both could spoil on long voyages. The switch to rum occurred when it became popular, and when it was noted not to spoil as quickly. Gradually the ration of rum to water increased until sailors were then given rations of straight rum, but this caused additional problems when sailors would save their rations over several days to drink them all at once. So the rum was again mixed with water, both to dilute its effects and to hasten its spoilage, which discouraged hoarding. The typical ration of water to rum was 4 to 1, though this was gradually reduced first to 3:1 and then finally to 2:1. Once the connection of scurvy prevention to citrus fruits was discovered, lemon or lime juices were mixed in as well, though this also helped to reduce the foul taste of the stagnant water. On special occasions, however, rations of straight rum would be issued to everyone over 20 not under punishment. These traditions are continued in the Dreamlands, and are extended to passengers as well as crew. A similar drink called "bumbo" consists of rum mixed with water, sugar, and nutmeg, though honey, citrus or other fruit juices, and cinnamon can be substituted or added. Darker rums are preferred over lighter ones when making grog or bumbo.

Whether juice or molasses is used as a base, yeast is added to convert the sugars into alcohol. The type of rum produced depends upon the type of yeast used. Fast-working yeasts are used to create lighter rums, while slow-working yeasts allow more esters to be produced, creating a more robust rum. Once fermentation is complete, the alcohol is distilled, producing different types of rum depending upon whether pot or continuous stills are used. Pot stills produce more congeners that add to flavour and aroma, creating robust rums, while column stills tend to remove these, creating lighter rums. Finally the rum is usually aged for at least one year. Once again, the method of aging is determined by what type of rum is to be produced. Aging in stainless metal tanks adds no colour or flavours, creating or preserving a lighter rum, whereas aging in used bourbon casks absorb colours and flavours from the wood, creating a more robust rum. Aged rum is blended before being bottled to ensure a consistent-quality product.

There are seven grades of rum. Light rums, also known as silver or white rums, have no colour and very little flavour beyond a general sweetness. Generally they are not aged or are aged in stainless metal tanks, but if they are aged in wood they tend to be filtered to remove any colour produced. They are primarily used for mixing.

Gold rums, also known as amber rums, are aged for a short time in lightly charred wooden casks to acquire some colour and flavour. They can be drunk straight, but are used in mixes as well.

Dark rums, also known by their colours (brown, black, red), are aged longer in heavily charred wooden casks to give them the strongest colour and flavour. They are primarily drunk straight, and are heavily used in cooking.

Spiced rums tend to be gold rums that age aged longer and have spices such as cinnamon, rosemary, aniseed, or pepper added to them. Caramel is sometimes added, and cheap varieties are simply light rums that have been artificially darkened with caramel colour.

Flavoured rums have been infused with fruit flavours, such as banana, mango, orange, citrus, coconut, starfruit, or lime. These are generally less than the standard 80 proof. These can be used in mixes or drunk straight.

Overproof rums are substantially higher than 80 proof, with most being higher than 120 proof. In fact, beverages as high as 160 proof are common.

Finally, Premium rums are high-end sipping spirits specially created through carefully controlled production and aging methods to create boutique brands for specific market categories. They are considered luxury beverages similar to Cognac and premium Scotch, and are marketed to wealthier customers.

Tequila is most strongly associated with the working class, "red necks", and the Hispanic culture. It is produced from the sugar-rich core of the blue agave, which is classified as a vegetable, making it the only commercial spirit not produced from fruit or grain. Agaves grow best in red volcanic soil, but the exact environment can affect their characteristics, with highland agaves being sweeter in aroma and taste and lowland agaves having a more herbaceous character. Legally, only certain distilleries can call their product "tequila", but as with other such restrictions it is difficult to enforce outside the jurisdictions of most governments. Typically, tequila is made at 80 proof, but strengths as low as 70 to as high as 110 proof exist.

Unlike other spirits, the growing of agave in the Dreamlands is a cultural activity. Few people not steeped in the millennia-old practices of the jimadores can successfully grow and harvest quality produce. As such, agave farms are few and are clustered around the Southern Sea, and operate by traditional manual methods, eschewing even the most basic of machines. The plants are allowed to fully ripen for an average of 12 years before being harvested, and determining when is the best time to harvest an individual plant is more art than science. Once harvested they are sold to merchants who transport them to distilleries further north. There the cores, known as piñas, are halved and baked in ovens for 24 hours, to soften them and convert their starches to sugars. Afterwards they are shredded or mashed to extract the juice. This is placed in vats to ferment for several days, creating a wort with low alcohol content. The wort is distilled once in pot stills to produce an amber "ordinario" tequila, which can be bottled immediately to be sold as a cheap alternative. Usually, however, it is distilled again to produce a clear "silver" tequila. This can also be bottled right away, or it can be aged in new or used white oak barrels, which may or may not be charred, to develop a mellow flavour and an amber colour. This is generally called "gold" tequila. A few distillers distill silver tequila to create "platinum" tequila, but this removes much of the natural flavour of tequila, leaving a very light spirit.

Meanwhile, the pulp that results from shredding or mashing is not simply discarded. It can be sold as compost or animal feed, or burnt as fuel, or even processed into paper. Some distillers like to add a small amount into the fermentation tanks to create a stronger flavour.

There are two basic types of tequila. Classical tequila is made from 100% agave, which a more vegetal taste than grain or fruit-based spirits. "Mixtos" tequilas have added sugar, usually from cane sugar though other sugar sources can be used, but the amount of agave can never be less than 51%. There are also five grades:

Blanco is silver tequila bottled immediately after distillation, or at best after aging for less than two months in stainless metal. It tends to be harsh, with bold flavours.

Reposado is aged for at least two months but less than a year in oak barrels. It tends to be smooth, subtle, and mellow, with more complex flavours.

Joven is a mixture of blanco and reposado tequilas. It also tends to be harsh, but has more flavours than blanco.

Añejo is aged for a minimum of one year but less than three years in small-capacity barrels.

Finally, Extra Añejo is aged for a minimum of three years, also in small-capacity barrels.

As a final note, a persistent myth is that some tequilas contain a worm in the bottle. This stems from confusion with a related spirit named mezcal or mescal, which is made from an agave-like plant known as the maguey. It tends to be harsher than tequila because it is distilled only once, it is fermented in the presence of fowl meat and cinnamon, pineapple slices, and red bananas, and the piñas are baked underground to give the beverage a smoky flavour. Being a traditional rather than a commercial spirit, its quality varies, sometimes tremendously. But only some people add a work to the bottle. Reasons for this vary. Some claim it proves the mezcal is fit to drink; others that it adds flavour. Most people, however, believe it to be a marketing ploy, pure and simple. Bottles that contain a worm are labeled "con gusano".

The irony is, it isn't even a worm, but the larva of the Tecol Moth, which infests the blue agave as well as the maguey. Plants found to harbor these larvas are actually discarded and burned because the quality of its juice will be impaired. Yet despite attempts to market tequila as a premium liquor, like Cognac, the myth persists, aided and abetted by opportunists who market tequila to the "red neck" culture, and those who add "worms" to the ordinario tequila they produce and bottle. Such should be avoided; its quality and safety is questionable at best.

Whiskey is probably the quintessential distilled spirit (though lovers of other spirits will vehemently argue that) and it may be the oldest. It is strongly associated with the working and productive classes, yet varieties can be found among the highest social strata in the Dreamlands, rivaling wine and Cognac for dominance. Its two primary characteristics are that it is made from a fermented grain mash and aged in wooden casks, but beyond that the possibilities for variety are almost endless. Grains typically used include barley, rye, wheat, and corn, with the first two typically being malted, but it can be made from sorghum, millet, oats, or buckwheat. The wooden casks are normally made from charred white oak, but other types of suitable wood can be used, though these will impart different flavours to the whiskey.

All whiskeys are made using the same general procedure. The grain is crushed and mixed with water to form a mash. If it contains 100% malted grain, it is referred to as a "malt mash", but if it contains a mixture of malted and unmalted grain, it is called a "grain mash". Yeast is added, and after fermentation is complete the mash wort is distilled twice. Finally the neutral grain spirit is aged in oak barrels. Distilleries typically use a method known as height rotation, in which the barrels are stored at different heights, but are rotated to new heights throughout the year, so all experience the same degree of evaporation. After aging is complete, the barrels are blended, often including barrels from different years, and then diluted to 80 proof using water before bottling. Whiskeys obtained from malt mashes are called "malt whiskeys", whereas those obtained from grain mashes are "grain whiskeys".

Despite local variation, however, commercial whiskeys are subject to regulation, though again these can be difficult to enforce outside of established jurisdictions, and not all jurisdictions enforce them. Whiskey cannot be distilled to greater than 160 proof, cannot be entered into the barrel at greater than 125 proof, and cannot be bottled at less than 80 proof. It must be aged in fire-charred new white oak barrels. To be named "straight" it must age for at least two years. To be named after a specific grain, such as "rye whiskey", the mash must contain at least 51% of that grain, otherwise it is just called "whiskey". To be called "single malt whiskey" it must be malt whiskey from a single distillery, whereas "single grain whiskey" must be grain whiskey from a single distillery. In neither case does a single grain need to be used, but a mixture of grains can suffice. "Blended malt whiskey" can be a mixture of malt whiskeys from different distilleries. "Blended whiskey" is a mixture of malt and grain whiskeys from multiple distilleries. "Cask strength whiskey" is bottled undiluted. "Single cask whiskey" is bottled from a single barrel rather than a blend of barrels, and so can have a specific vintage unlike most whiskeys.

However, there are additional regulations for specific varieties of whiskey. "Corn whiskey" must be made from a mash that consists of at least 80% corn, to avoid confusion with bourbon, but it does not need to be aged, or at best can be aged for no more than six months in un-charred or used barrels.

"Blended whiskey" is a mix of one or more straight or single-malt whiskeys with a neutral grain spirit and water, plus colouring agents and sometimes flavouring. The amount of spirit must be disclosed on the label, but the beverage must contain at least 20% whiskey stock with a minimum age of at least three years. If it contains less, or if something other than straight or single-malt whiskey is used, it must be called "spirit whiskey". Blended and spirit whiskeys are used primarily for mixing whiskey-based drinks.

"Bourbon", which originated in the Waking World in Bourbon County, Kentucky, USA, must be based on a mash containing at least 51% corn (70% is typical) crushed into a powdery grist and must use limestone-filtered hardwater free of iron. The other grains in the mash are restricted to rye or wheat and malted barley. Bourbon must be aged, but there are no minimum age requirements (maturity is the goal, not a particular age), except it must age for at least two years to be called "straight bourbon". "Blended bourbon" must contain at least 51% straight bourbon. Though not a requirement, many distillers spike the mash of a current batch with mash from a previous batch. This is called a "sour mash", and the resulting beverage is often called "sour mash bourbon".

Tennessee whiskey is a form of bourbon that originated in the Waking World in the state of Tennessee, USA. To be called Tennessee whiskey a bourbon must be charcoal filtered before being aged.

Scotch, though technically a whiskey, is sometimes considered by its fans to be a different spirit entirely. Technically whiskey must be distilled in Scotland to be called Scotch, but in the Dreamlands the regulations have relaxed that requirement while tightening others. To be considered Scotch the mash must be composed of at least 80% barley, with at least 51% of that malted. The only other permitted grains are rye or wheat. (Many distillers used 100% barley, and a significant number 100% malted barley.) The grain must be malted using the floor method. After being steeped in water the barley is spread out over a floor germinate. It must then be transferred to the floor of a kiln to be dried with heated air to stop germination. Ideally peat should be used as the fuel to provide smoke as well, but this is not required. It must be distilled twice, to a maximum of 190 proof, then aged in used barrels at a strength of 127 proof for a minimum of three years, though single malt Scotch is usually aged for 12, 15, 20, 30, or even 50 years.

Though some single malt and a number of single grain Scotches are bottled each year, 90% of all Scotch blended to maintain consistent quality. The minimum age of the blend must be disclosed on the label. "Blended Scotch" can be a mix of single malt whiskeys or single grain whiskeys, but must be from different distilleries. A mix of single malt with single grain is called "blended Scotch", with no distinction of its source.

It should be noted, however, that outside of regional jurisdictions, many unscrupulous distillers will try to pass off whiskeys made from unmalted barley, rye, wheat, or even corn as true Scotch. While harmless in and of themselves, some also add adulterants as colouring and flavouring agents, which can make them poisonous.

In addition to these spirits there are many others produced throughout the Dreamlands, though most are different varieties of the previous spirits in one form or another. Three that are fairly common beyond their local areas are shōchū (distilled from rice wine), arrack (distilled from fermented coconut sap), and arkhi (distilled from fermented milk).

Liqueurs are unlike other alcoholic beverages in that they are not made from a source that is fermented then distilled, but are instead made from spirits flavoured with fruit, cream, herbs, spices, flowers or nuts, and bottled with added sugar. As such, they are not aged, but typically undergo a "resting period" to allow different flavours to "marry". Most have a lower alcohol content than spirits due to dilution, usually 30 to 60 proof, but some can be as high as 110 proof. There is no basic procedure for making a liqueur; each is made by a different recipe. However, there are two broad categories: those based on an existing spirit, such as brandy, rum, or whiskey, and those based on pure neutral spirit. For example, Chambord is based on Cognac, Kahlúa on rum, and Drambuie on malt whiskey, whereas Irish Cream, Crème de menthe, and Ouzo start with a neutral spirit.

Virtually every liqueur created in the Waking World is present in the Dreamlands, which also has a few unique to itself. As such, there are far too many to discuss here, but one of interest should be mentioned. As previously described, Schnaps is correctly described as a brandy-like spirit distilled from fermented fruit must, and is clear with a light fruit flavour. However, a group of liqueurs called "schnapps" are created by mixing a neutral grain spirit with various flavouring agents, and then bottling them with added sugar and glycerine to create a syrup-like beverage, generally between 30 and 100 proof. Schnapps may be the most common liqueur in the Dreamlands, because it is so easy and inexpensive to make, and can be traded in rather large quantities. Though the list of possible flavours is virtually endless, typical additives include aniseed, apricot, banana, blackberry, black currant, butterscotch, cherry, cinnamon, coffee, grape, lemon, mandarin orange, menthol, peach, peppermint, root beer, and sour apple.